Big Food takes a lot of heat when it comes to consumer health. And no wonder: Books like Michael Moss’ Salt, Sugar, Fat and Melanie Warner’s Pandora’s Lunchbox have pulled back the curtain to reveal the dirty little secrets of how the processed food industry has insinuated it self into the lives of consumers around the world—and how that power has affected global wellbeing.

It’s true that many food manufacturers have tweaked their formulations for maximum craveability (how many people can ...